Coyotes, Lobsters, and a Surfer Named Steve (part 2)
am driving down the street when an old Honda pulls alongside, and the driver leans out. “Are you Eric’s friend? I’m Steve.”
“No,” I say, “I’m Lloyd Kahn.”
“The Shelter guy?”
“Yeah. In fact, I was looking for you.”
He loves the Shelter book, he says, and we start to talk in the middle of the road. It’s ok because there’s no traffic. “Is there any way I can get out to the island?” I ask.
For a couple of years I’d wanted to explore Isla Magdalena. It’s about 70 miles long, a narrow strip of an island with the Pacific to the west and a network of (navigable) mangrove estuaries on the east. Parts of the island are less than a mile wide, from the estuaries to the ocean.
There are shipwrecks all along the sandy outer beach, and at the southern end is a 1600-foot-high mountain and — (ahem!) — world class surf. Lobsters walking around on the bottom, clams, oysters, abundant fish. I am fascinated by the idea of surfing in uncrowded waters. Plus, I like the idea that this area is not yet a “destination.”
There is no one out there except the fishermen and their families. No gringos, no surfers, tourists only infrequently, and not many. The reason: it’s so hard to get there. Steve, however, has it down. A panga* to the island town of Puerto Magdalena; then a flatbed truck to within 1/2 mile of campsite. Walk and lug stuff from there.
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*Sturdy fiberglass 20–24" long fishing boats used all over Baja and Mexico for launching from beaches, typically with 65 hp Evinrudes.
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© Lloyd Kahn, 1999 |
| My southern Baja rolling home, an ’83 Toyota 4 x 4, with Italian-made “Air Camping” tent on the roof. A tough, sturdy, and practical Baja vehicle. |
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teve (Estéban) is 42, sandy blond hair, athlete’s build, ready smile. He’s been a cook in Alaska, played in a Mexican rock and roll band for 3 years, former gymnast, surfer, fisherman, adventurer, has lived in the area for 8 years.He’s married a second time, to Olga, a Puerto San Carlos native, and they have a beautiful happy little cherubic 1-year-old girl who wanders around beaming at everyone. He also has two teen aged boys living in Philadelphia from a previous marriage. Steve is, well . . . genuine.
Steve speaks perfect Spanish. He has great rapport with the Mexicans. They all know him and like him. He runs his surf camp mainly in summer months. 8 surfers per session. A typical session involves surfers flying to LA, thence to Laredo, where Steve busses them to Puerto San Carlos. Early the next morning they’re off to the island.
Steve has everything set up, all food, transport, bedding, tents, kayaks included for about $100 a day. Cold beer $1 a bottle. Each session lasts a week. Surfers are all alone out there, and according to Steve it’s a perfect wave. Since it’s so inaccessible, they have the waves all to themselves.
Go to part 3.
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